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Case Studies – Installing Megan Rear Upper and Lower Arms in a S14

Today we are bolting on a set of Megan Rear Upper Control arms, and Megan Racing Lower Control arms in a 1996 240SX ( S14 ), part numbers are :

MR-RTCA-NS14Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms

These arms allow you to change the static toe and toe change during suspension compression and load. An easy bolt-in upgrade, alignment is required after this install.

MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms

These arms are meant to adjust rear camber to whatever specifications you desire. Replacing the stock rubber bushings with pillow ball ends provides a upgrade in stiffness and response.

Here is the car in question before the install :

Tools you will need for this install :

  • 14mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 17mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 19mm socket and open ended wrench
  • jack and jack stands
  • MR-RTCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms
  • MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms
First jack up the car and secure it safely using your jackstands, for those of you fortunate enough to work on a 2 post lift, just remove your wheels.
First use your 19mm socket and open ended wrench to undo the outmost bolt holding your rear upper control arm in place.

Next take off the rear bolt, and put the bolts safely away. You should now be able to remove your entire rear upper arm

Now, you’re ready to install your rear upper arm but not before lining your old arm up and adjusting the Megan arm to a similar length. You will need an alignment after this install regardless, so you might want to keep the jam nuts loose.

Next undo the outer most bolt in your rear lower toe arm, this bolt is located to the rear and left of your shock housing ( from the driver side )

Now, undo the inner bolt and this arm will come right off

Now install your new rear toe arm by reversing the process and you’re done!

Make sure your jam nuts are tight if you cannot align your vehicle right away, you don’t want them coming loose on you.

After your alignment, you should be ready to rock and roll!

Happy Drifting!

 

Aligning at Treds

A good friend of mine just opened his doors at Treds Alignment in Hayward, which presented me with the perfect opportunity to hash out any lingering stance issues.

Jesse, Butch and Chris are as cool as they come, and provide top-notch support and service. Butch is probably one of the most experienced and knowledgeable alignment guys in the Bay Area.

The runway....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After swapping / replacing all the arms and my rear subframe, Butch tells me the only thing left is my front passenger side lower control arm. I probably will not be opting for the replacement arms here, but instead going with stock arms and Energy Suspension bushings.

What do you mean the car doesnt drive straight???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A shot of my rear arms, and now straight subframe.

It's really....... blue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dialing it in

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Butch dials the car in, the difference is as drastic as night and day. The car no longer pulls to the right and feedback on turn-in as well as exit is much more consistent. I also take the time to upgrade my inner and outer tie rod ends, and as a result bumpsteer is significantly reduced.

Next up : 2JZ wiring and other nightmares.

 

Setting the Stance – Aligning the 240 and Megan Racing

After my ordeal with C&J Automotive, I finally got my Megan subframe bushings pressed in and locked in. My last shipment of parts from Megan Racing finally arrives with my upper rear control arms and tie rod ends.

I remove my old subframe, and find that the subframe itself had been cracked and rewelded.

Performance Options in Oakland, go there if you want shady half-ass work.

This vehicle was worked on by Performance Options in Oakland and sold to me by them, who apparently has no problem selling bent subframe cars without disclosing what is wrong with the vehicle…. with this kind of honesty, no wonder guys in the Bay Area don’t trust shops…. but I digress.

After yanking my old subframe, I mount the Megan Rear Upper Control arms and rear toe arms, along with my subframe collars.

putting it all together

The subframe takes just an hour to drop and after prepping, is ready to go back in.

Jesse installing the toe arms

All put together

Its so.... Blue

Next up, aligning the 240 and sorting out the bumpsteer issues.

Project 240SX – Sorting out Subframe issues

Well the 240’s stance has certainly had it’s fair share of issues, and after a trip to see Butchie @ Treds Alignment Specialists it didn’t take long to determine what the issue was.

It doesn’t take Butch long to determine that my rear subframe is bent, as well as my front lower control arm. Bummer. Looks like the kid tried to be King Drift and ended up kissing a curb, which pushed in my passenger side inboard about an inch.

After further inspection, the frame rail looks to be straight, which was important for this car if I wanted to keep it. After picking up a used subframe from a kid in Hayward for 100 dollars I make another series of calls to start collecting the parts I need.

After another call to Megan Racing, I receive my inner and outer tie rods, lower toe armsrear upper arms, hardened subframe bushings, short shifter and rear lower arms.

Next up : installing the bushings into my subframe.

Frozen Megan Track Coilovers

While I sort out the issue with the freight company dropkicking my 2JZ off the pallet, I decide to take care of my front end noises. The 240 pulls to the right on acceleration and makes an ugly clunking noise when turning the wheel left.

After tearing apart the front of the car, I discover that both my inner and outer tie rod ends are completely blown, my tension rods are shot and my Megan Track Coilovers are seized.

I absolutely despise anyone who installs bottom threaded coilovers without anti-seize, because it goes a long way in preventing this kind of seizing issue.

I take off the front coilovers and allow them to soak overnight in a mixture of Greddy Blue Synthetic 5w-30 motor oil and used pennzoil 10-40.

What's for dinner Ma?

As the entire bottom assembly must turn, this really is one of the only ways to unseize these kinds of coilovers without ruining the mounting perches or collars by clamping down on them.

Making a mess.. JH style

After spraying off the excess oil, I disassemble the coilovers so that I can knock the lower half of the coilovers free.

Air Tools FTW

After removing the adjustment screw and the allen head securing it to the rod assembly, I take off the pillowball upper mounts and pull up the dust boot to expose the shaft.

Remove the spring and lower locking perches and unwind the locking perch on the very bottom of the shock so that the lower assembly will freely turn.

Fly away Stanley.... be free

It takes just one swing of the hammer to knock loose the coilover mount, and now I can raise the car from it’s current “I-scrape-on-bubble-gum” setting.

After a call to my boy Nelson @ Megan Racing, he sends me a set of their new tension rods for the S14 chassis.

minty fresh!

Here’s a pic of my 15+ year old tension rod

That's not #winning

And finally a picture of the new Megan Tension Rods installed, for the record its 2 17mm nuts holding this part to the front lower control arm, one 17mm head bolt and 19mm nut on the K member

minty fresh!

With the new tension rods installed the car no longer has the horrible noises on deceleration and is much more predictable over bumps, eliminating the guesswork and diminshing the “bump steer” factor of the 240sx.

Next up : Installing new bushings and arms for the complete rear pumpkin assembly.