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The Return of the S16?

I’ll admit I was a little more than disappointed when Nissan initially denied any rumor to the S-Chassis returning as a smaller, slimmer version of the 370Z to compete with the Toyobaru twins.

I never get tired of the S15

Many Nissan fans didn’t like the news that Nissan though of the Juke as a suitable replacement in the subcompact sports car class.

hmmm..

In 1996 Nissan unveiled the Urge, a six speed rear wheel drive roadster that was a few years to late to the game.

With Chevy and other manufacturers clamoring to replicate the success of the lightweight rear wheel drive Toyabaru twins, it only seems logical for Nissan to bring back something that’s long been a staple of their company.

In the fall of 2012, Nissan design director Shiro Nakamura talked Austrailian based automotive magazine Drive and hinted to the possibility of a lightweight rear wheel drive coupe.

Hinting to the possibility that Nissan may consider downsizing its sports cars, including possibly a sub-compact 370Z model got enthusiasts excited. He also revealed that the next version of the Nissan Z may not have a higher displacement motor than the current one.

“I much prefer smaller sports cars,” Nakamura said. “With 370Z, we still don’t know if the next-generation will have a smaller or larger engine.”

Besides the possibility of a smaller engine, Nakamura said reducing the weight of the next Z car is a priority and all other future Nissan sports cars will be lightweight.

As well as dropping hints to the next Nissan Z, Nakamura also spoke about the possible return of the Silvia, otherwise known in the States as the 240SX. Nakamura was notably coy when pressed for details from Drive Magazine, could this really be in the works at Nissan?

“I cannot say,” Nakamura said, “A light, sport coupe is a nice concept, I like it.” he would continue after reinforcing the fact that he was a huge fan of the lightweight rear wheel drive platform.

With the 350Z, 370Z, and the Skyline GT-R, could Nissan support all the different platforms and vehicles as well as possibly add the new 240SX to rival the FR-S and BRZ under the same performance moniker?

According to Nakamura, yes. “If there is a market, we will do it,” Nakamura said.

Rumors are abound regarding the MR engine and many have projected it’s use as a 1.8L powerplant. Question is will that be enough to hang with the likes of the new FR-S, BRZ and STi flagships that have recently been released?

If there’s any clue to the temperature of the “market” and the willingness of Chevy and other domestic manufacturers to join the lightweight rear wheel drive coupe race, we could see the S16 make a triumphant return.

Project 240SX – Oh… the Irony….

Well as some of you know, our flush mount hood pin install on a S13 writeup caused some legal issues to come to the forefront. As those issues do not pertain to me individually, I would encourage those shopping for a flush mount hood pin kit ( or ANY performance part ) to do their due diligence before plopping your hard earned cash down on anything.

So imagine the irony when my JDM hood flipped up and smashed my windshield and roof in the middle of a Patterson Pass run.

At around 45 mph, entering a hairpin turn on the south end of the canyon road, my hood suddenly flipped up. With less than 30 feet between me and a large drop off into a canyon, I was reminded why I installed a set of Evolution X calipers on my 240SX.

The car came to a stop just as the front passenger side tire had rolled off the cliff, largely unharmed but not without damage.

What my roof looks like now…..

What my kouki hood looks like now…

Where the stock hood latch decided to shear off it’s mounting points. I am unclear as to how exactly this happened, but I have a feeling the previous owner had performed some “modifications”

I am just happy that I got to walk away from the accident, and that no further damage was done.

Unfortunately, kouki hoods are hard to find nowadays and I am having a hard time justifying a carbon fiber hood since I’ll most likely have to cut holes for ventilation once the 2jz goes in.

The accident has also sped up my timetable as far as getting work done on the car. It’s just too easy for me to get into a groove and be lazy, and perhaps the hood incident will get me to get off my ass and actually complete this project.

Time will tell..

Project 240SX – Installing EVO X Brakes

This post has been moved to it’s new permanent home at My Pro Street, where they have purchased the intellectual rights to this article. If you have a how to site and want to make some spare cash check them out. Click here for the full article.

Click here for the How To upgrade your 240sx brakes

Click here for the How To upgrade your 240sx brakes

For the time being, we will be using a Centric 300zx brake master, part number 46010-30P22 for a master cylinder bore of 17/16th. However due to the ever elusive third brake fitting, we opt for a banjo bolt solution instead.

By using a m10 banjo bolt fitting, we install another Russell 65702 – banjo straight to 10mm female -3 and another Aeroquip FCM2945 – -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare to go to the passenger side front brake.

 

Case Studies – Installing Megan Rear Upper and Lower Arms in a S14

Today we are bolting on a set of Megan Rear Upper Control arms, and Megan Racing Lower Control arms in a 1996 240SX ( S14 ), part numbers are :

MR-RTCA-NS14Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms

These arms allow you to change the static toe and toe change during suspension compression and load. An easy bolt-in upgrade, alignment is required after this install.

MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms

These arms are meant to adjust rear camber to whatever specifications you desire. Replacing the stock rubber bushings with pillow ball ends provides a upgrade in stiffness and response.

Here is the car in question before the install :

Tools you will need for this install :

  • 14mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 17mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 19mm socket and open ended wrench
  • jack and jack stands
  • MR-RTCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms
  • MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms
First jack up the car and secure it safely using your jackstands, for those of you fortunate enough to work on a 2 post lift, just remove your wheels.
First use your 19mm socket and open ended wrench to undo the outmost bolt holding your rear upper control arm in place.

Next take off the rear bolt, and put the bolts safely away. You should now be able to remove your entire rear upper arm

Now, you’re ready to install your rear upper arm but not before lining your old arm up and adjusting the Megan arm to a similar length. You will need an alignment after this install regardless, so you might want to keep the jam nuts loose.

Next undo the outer most bolt in your rear lower toe arm, this bolt is located to the rear and left of your shock housing ( from the driver side )

Now, undo the inner bolt and this arm will come right off

Now install your new rear toe arm by reversing the process and you’re done!

Make sure your jam nuts are tight if you cannot align your vehicle right away, you don’t want them coming loose on you.

After your alignment, you should be ready to rock and roll!

Happy Drifting!

 

Case Studies – Installing an HKS catback on a S13

Today we are installing an old-school HKS Hi-Power onto a 1992 Nissan 240SX SE.This is an older HKS unit with the old school dual exhaust tips, meant for NA applications.

Tools you will need for this install :

First raise the car up and locate your cat, depending on your vehicle and how old it is / exposure to rain / elements it may be rusted. If so use a can of Blast Away or similar product to get the nuts lubed up.

Next undo the 14mm nuts holding the cat to the exhaust midsection.

Now locate your exhaust hangers forward of the gas tank and to the left of the tank, held on by 2 14mm bolts.

Now you can drop your entire exhaust as one piece, make sure to take care when removing the catalytic converter bolts, as they tend to rust and may strip if not removed carefully.

Here is a comparison shot between the stock unit and the upgraded HKS catback.

Another shot of the midpipe and the comparison between both units

Now hang the rear muffler section onto the back of the S13, re-using the factory rubber hangers.

Next bolt up the midpipe to the cat, securing it by reusing the 14mm nuts you removed. Now line up the midpipe with the rear section, making sure to make a positive seal with the supplied HKS exhaust gasket.

Now tighten her up and you are done!

Enjoy and good luck!

Aligning at Treds

A good friend of mine just opened his doors at Treds Alignment in Hayward, which presented me with the perfect opportunity to hash out any lingering stance issues.

Jesse, Butch and Chris are as cool as they come, and provide top-notch support and service. Butch is probably one of the most experienced and knowledgeable alignment guys in the Bay Area.

The runway....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After swapping / replacing all the arms and my rear subframe, Butch tells me the only thing left is my front passenger side lower control arm. I probably will not be opting for the replacement arms here, but instead going with stock arms and Energy Suspension bushings.

What do you mean the car doesnt drive straight???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A shot of my rear arms, and now straight subframe.

It's really....... blue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dialing it in

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Butch dials the car in, the difference is as drastic as night and day. The car no longer pulls to the right and feedback on turn-in as well as exit is much more consistent. I also take the time to upgrade my inner and outer tie rod ends, and as a result bumpsteer is significantly reduced.

Next up : 2JZ wiring and other nightmares.

 

Setting the Stance – Aligning the 240 and Megan Racing

After my ordeal with C&J Automotive, I finally got my Megan subframe bushings pressed in and locked in. My last shipment of parts from Megan Racing finally arrives with my upper rear control arms and tie rod ends.

I remove my old subframe, and find that the subframe itself had been cracked and rewelded.

Performance Options in Oakland, go there if you want shady half-ass work.

This vehicle was worked on by Performance Options in Oakland and sold to me by them, who apparently has no problem selling bent subframe cars without disclosing what is wrong with the vehicle…. with this kind of honesty, no wonder guys in the Bay Area don’t trust shops…. but I digress.

After yanking my old subframe, I mount the Megan Rear Upper Control arms and rear toe arms, along with my subframe collars.

putting it all together

The subframe takes just an hour to drop and after prepping, is ready to go back in.

Jesse installing the toe arms

All put together

Its so.... Blue

Next up, aligning the 240 and sorting out the bumpsteer issues.

Project 240SX – Devoid of Rational Thought

I had originally planned on swapping in a LS3 into the 240SX, a continuation of my ongoing quest for the perfect street car. After selling my LS1 powered S13, this only seemed like the next logical step.

My Ls1 powered 240sx

And why not? the GEN III Chevy Small block is a modern revelation in power and reliability.

With just longtubes, a full catback and a Lingerfelter cam my S13 put down 454 / 432 to the wheels, while retaiing A/C, P/S and exhibiting very calm street manners.

So logic would have it that I would just go right back to another GEN III motor…. right?

As luck would have it a friend of mine found a guy on Zilvia that was getting rid of his 2JZGTE. After talking to him for a few days I worked out a trade for parts, which works out perfectly for me as I am working from a limited budget.

No Shit, 2JZ????

Yes, a motor that will cost more to mod, more to maintain and more points of failure. I can’t retain A/C, and will require a ton more modification to shoehorn the venerable Japanese I-6 into my 240SX.

Why not a V8? Good question and I don’t know the answer other than “I like boost”

Why not a RB? I debated it at length, considering I could swap a RB25 into the 240 in my sleep, but ultimately my respect and admiration for the Supra pushed me towards the 2JZ.

Foolish? maybe.

Next – Addressing the car’s stance

Project 240SX – Why there are professionals for this

After my excursion into wiring hell, I take the Kouki front end off to see exactly what the hell is the problem with the hood not lining up.

I discover that the fenders are OE metal, but seem smashed in on the passenger side, not to mention the headlight is busted on that side as well. Seems as though it’s just a plain collision until I get to the drivers side.

I also find that there’s over 10 zipties holding the Kouki lights, front grill, and front bumper onto the car. The bumper has no bolts other than what appears to be a wood screw through the Zenki front bumper support. And?? It gets better!

oops?

What I originally thought was negative camber, actually turned out to be a tweaked front lower control arm that was sucking the drivers side wheel about 2 inches inboard and the bottom of the wheel out half an inch past the fender.

Upon further inspection the passenger side rear wheel also looks sunked in about 2-3 inches inboard.

The frame checks out and is straight, thanks to Jack @ Motorsport for lining her up and checking her out. So looks like I will be replacing the front lower arm as well as the rear subframe.

Why do I want this car again? lol