Project 240SX – Oh… the Irony….

Well as some of you know, our flush mount hood pin install on a S13 writeup caused some legal issues to come to the forefront. As those issues do not pertain to me individually, I would encourage those shopping for a flush mount hood pin kit ( or ANY performance part ) to do their due diligence before plopping your hard earned cash down on anything.

So imagine the irony when my JDM hood flipped up and smashed my windshield and roof in the middle of a Patterson Pass run.

At around 45 mph, entering a hairpin turn on the south end of the canyon road, my hood suddenly flipped up. With less than 30 feet between me and a large drop off into a canyon, I was reminded why I installed a set of Evolution X calipers on my 240SX.

The car came to a stop just as the front passenger side tire had rolled off the cliff, largely unharmed but not without damage.

What my roof looks like now…..

What my kouki hood looks like now…

Where the stock hood latch decided to shear off it’s mounting points. I am unclear as to how exactly this happened, but I have a feeling the previous owner had performed some “modifications”

I am just happy that I got to walk away from the accident, and that no further damage was done.

Unfortunately, kouki hoods are hard to find nowadays and I am having a hard time justifying a carbon fiber hood since I’ll most likely have to cut holes for ventilation once the 2jz goes in.

The accident has also sped up my timetable as far as getting work done on the car. It’s just too easy for me to get into a groove and be lazy, and perhaps the hood incident will get me to get off my ass and actually complete this project.

Time will tell..

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Project 240SX – Installing EVO X Brakes

It’s been quite some time since I’ve found the motivation to work on Project 240sx, but with the brakes going out, I’ve decided it’s a good time to upgrade the brakes in the car.

After some debating, I decided to go with a budget build and swap in some Brembo calipers from a Evolution VIII or IX. This is a common swap among 240sx enthusiasts, until I found a terrific deal on a set of minty Evolution X calipers locally that I just couldn’t pass up.

The Evolution X brake setup is heads and shoulders above the VIII or IX calipers, as the X runs a disgusting 13.9 inch (353 mm) rotor.

After doing some research, it doesn’t look like many people have done this swap but after some slight modification the X brakes are just as easy as the VIII or IX calipers.

Parts we are using for this upgrade :

  • 300zx Master Cylinder
  • Centric Carbon Brake Rotors for EVO X
  • Evolution X Brake Calipers
  • Skullworks Evo VIII caliper brackets
  • x2 Russell part number 65702 – banjo straight to 10mm female -3
  • x2 Aeroquip FCM2945 – -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare
  • DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fuild
  • 17mm, 19mm, 14mm socket and open ended wrenches.
  • 10 mm flare wrench
The only modification required to the EVO VIII or EVO IX brackets from Skullworks is that the shank that goes into the EVO X caliper is 9/16th, which will require some drilling into the caliper mounting positions.
To be safe, I’ve taken the brackets to a machine shop who true’d up the holes before boring them out.
First, remove your wheels and remove the 19mm bolts holding your factory caliper to the hub assembly. Then remove your brake discs and set them to the side. Now you can either elect to trim or remove the splash guard on your brakes.
Now undo the 10mm nut on the brake hard line that leads into your stock rubber brake line. Use your flare wrench as to prevent slippage and any rounding of the nut in question.
Now your entire stock caliper setup can be removed, take care to put down some kitty litter or spare rags as your brake system will pee everywhere.
A look at the difference between stock s14 and stock Evolution brake discs…. yikes..
A shot of the rotor mounted onto the car.
Now mount the Skullworks adapters to the caliper, and then mount them onto the car. Here is a shot of the mockup with the caliper test fitted to the car.
Test fitting our rims, they fit! These ADR M Classics are a great bang for the buck fit at 18×9.5 +25 offset. We are running a 10mm spacer up front for better shock clearance.
Now using your Russel lines, reconnect the banjo fitting over the stock bolt in the caliper. The -3 to inverted flare fitting goes onto the other end, and then goes into the factory position, using the factory C clip to hold the line in place.
Then reconnect the stock S14 lines and tighten down using your flare 10mm.
Yes… it’s a tight fit.
With the brakes installed, the car stops marvelously but pedal pressure is quite weak until you get about halfway down the throw.
Next we go to install our 300ZX brake master cylinder to increase pedal pressure and allow for superior brake modulation. For a complete listing of brake master cylinders that work for this install, I have copied a chart from Import Nut and his Definitive 300zx brake upgrade page.
Chart of Brake Master Cylinders :
  • 46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Tokico)
  • 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Tokico)
  • 46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Tokico)
  • 46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16″ NA Nabco non-ABS)
  • 46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ NA Nabco)
  • 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16″ TT Nabco)
  • 46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16″ NA & TT Nabco)
  • 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA TT Tokico)
  • 46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1″ NA & TT Tokico) 
  • 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1″ NA & TT Nabco)
  • 46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up  (1″ NA & TT Nabco)

Unfortunately, Lizzie orders the wrong fitting and it won’t fit in the third brake fitting.

She had to be punished accordingly, but I’ve since forgiven her

Ordering a brake master with the third fitting installed is simply out of the question. I refuse to pay upwards of 250 dollars for basically a bubble flare fitting.

I am working on a resolution for this issue, because honestly nobody should pay 250 dollars for a 60 dollar brake master cylinder.

For the time being, we will be using a Centric 300zx brake master, part number 46010-30P22 for a master cylinder bore of 17/16th. However due to the ever elusive third brake fitting, we opt for a banjo bolt solution instead.

By using a m10 banjo bolt fitting, we install another Russell 65702 – banjo straight to 10mm female -3 and another Aeroquip FCM2945 – -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare to go to the passenger side front brake.

Does this solution work? yes. Does it look all that great? heck no. Does the car pull left or right due to the differences in line size? no not at all.

Upon installation of the 17/16th master cylinder, the brake response is phenomenal. The Evo X calipers can handle all the pressure our master can throw at it, and we are luckily running 245s up front, which match our new brakes quite well.

This is truly the budget brake kit for those wanting supercar braking performance without the supercar price tag.

Next up, finding a solution to the third brake fitting and prepping the car for paint.

Happy drifting!

Project 240SX – Why there are professionals for this

After my excursion into wiring hell, I take the Kouki front end off to see exactly what the hell is the problem with the hood not lining up.

I discover that the fenders are OE metal, but seem smashed in on the passenger side, not to mention the headlight is busted on that side as well. Seems as though it’s just a plain collision until I get to the drivers side.

I also find that there’s over 10 zipties holding the Kouki lights, front grill, and front bumper onto the car. The bumper has no bolts other than what appears to be a wood screw through the Zenki front bumper support. And?? It gets better!

oops?

What I originally thought was negative camber, actually turned out to be a tweaked front lower control arm that was sucking the drivers side wheel about 2 inches inboard and the bottom of the wheel out half an inch past the fender.

Upon further inspection the passenger side rear wheel also looks sunked in about 2-3 inches inboard.

The frame checks out and is straight, thanks to Jack @ Motorsport for lining her up and checking her out. So looks like I will be replacing the front lower arm as well as the rear subframe.

Why do I want this car again? lol