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Project SC : 2JZGTE ECU Wiring into SC300 Guide

To prep the SC for the GTE swap, I’ve sourced a MT GTE ECU and a Aristo ( JDM 2JZGTE ) engine harness. For those doing this swap into a SC300, the wiring is a lot easier than the typical S-Chassis wiring in that many of the vehicle’s functions and wires are the same.

Given the similarities between the SC300 and the MKIV Supra, this is really no surprise, however you will need to lengthen and extend the third plug or body plug as well as rewire.

This body plug disconnects from the sc300 along the firewall, next to the ABS module and near the windshield.

Upon splicing open this harness, you will notice many similarities with your Aristo harness.  The large connector on this harness connects to the SC300 body plug and also the small plug that leads to the ECU.

For ease of wiring installation, we are eliminating the following wires (Traction Control D17,  Pressure sender ( Dummy Light ) D10, and Transmission Shift indicator D1)

Use the following pinout and match the corresponding colors accordingly.

courtesy of clublexus.com. not my pic

The Aristo harness and ecu plugs :

For a pin by pin how to, refer to this chart here :

Now with your engine harness properly wired, you may now remove your old SC300 harness and install your GTE ECU and plug it in. Next up, we start yanking weight in preparation of motor swap, as well as installing a new Cometic head gasket, ARP head studs and selecting our turbo setup.

Happy boosting!

Project SC : Setting the Stance with Megan LP Coilovers

Welp, it’s about that time to get off my lazy behind and finally get some work done to the SC. While the car was lowered by the previous owner, the KYB shocks weren’t up to the kind of punishment that only Bay Area highways can provide.

Where else to go for a good coilover set that won’t break the bank? After much deliberation, I went with the LP series Megan Racing coilovers for the MKIV Supra.

These Megan LP coilovers provide a 32 levels of damper force adjustment and separate spring perch height and shock length adjustments. Without camber plates however, it essentially ensures I cannot lower the car TOO low as the SC300’s stock camber adjustments do not allow for anything greater than -3 degreees.

First we begin by removing the rear trunk area and deck lid, allowing us access to the rear shocks and the gas tank.

Now undo the 3 14mm nuts holding the top perch of your coilover in place. With these nuts removed, you can now go under the car and remove the 19mm bolt that goes around the lower control arm.

After removing that 19mm bolt, you can now pull out the old setup and put in the new Megan Coilovers.

Depending on how low you decide to set your SC, you may or may not have an issue with the rear sway bar linkage not fitting.

To remedy this issue, we’ve gone ahead and installed some BLOX adjustible end links to tie things together.

After lowering the car, the LP’s put me as low as I need to go ( maybe a tad TOO low to be honest ). With the car’s stance figured out, we move on to POWER!

Next up, swapping in the Aristo 2JZGTE and WIRING it up… yay?

Happy boosting!

Project SC : A new beginning

Well, maybe not a NEW beginning, but Project 2JZ-240SX has certainly taken a turn as the S14 undergoes surgery, I begin tearing into my new whip, a 92 manual SC300.

The car is monstrously heavy compared to the S14, and with the blown shocks and other Mickey Mouse work done to the SC, it rides like a boat.

Response is dull, steering feedback is lacking, and the car plows into every corner, pushing until the limit, when at long last I can bring the heavy rear end of the car around. Sadly the car doesn’t have enough steering angle to compensate, and the heavy nature of the car makes it difficult to step out as easily as the S14 did.

Compared to the athletic and nimble S14, it’s clear what the SC will become, a nice street car with a 2JZ swap in it. I am considering BAR legality currently, to see if it’s worth the hassle of legalizing the motor upon swapping into my SC.

The paint on the car is in decent shape, the tan interior is very clean, albeit ugly as sin. I make plans on picking up black interior, but first I’ve got to address some issues with the car, such as the headlights not working or the starter working.

Upon further inspection, it seems as though the driver side harness has been chewed up due to be lowered.

It shocks me that to this day, people still aggressively lower their cars down without considering the engine harness.

First, undo the 2 10mm bolts holding the engine harness to the frame, these are located toward the rear of the driver side fender well.

Taking these 2 10mm bolts out will allow you to pull *GENTLY* on the harness and give you enough slack to push the harness up and out of the way. Secure it with zipties or metal loops, I’ve opted for McMaster Carr ground straps.

After I’ve re-run the harness, I take apart the harness to repair the wires that had been run through and damaged. Now wrap up the harness and tuck it away, make sure to give yourself plenty of clearance so that your rims and tires don’t touch the harness ever again.

Next up, I tackle the tan interior of the SC300.

It’s clean.. .but too…….. tan.

You must undo the shift bezel, undo the screws that hold the center console in, and pop out the entire center console panel allowing you access to the radio and climate control mounting bolts.

After undoing those bolts, now remove the climate control and radio as a whole to give you access to the rear screws and dash vents.

I also decided to move over the MOMO Race wheel, because deep dish is so much more nicer and should go into my S14, which is dedicated track only use now.

With the new black panels installed, the car looks much better but the tan seats and carpet are still an eyesore.

Next up, getting rid of the stock seats, carpet, and putting the SC on a diet.

Happy boosting!